Day 7: Hiking the Pic de Canigou

Sunday 12/7/2020 

It's Sunday and sun welcomes us in the early morning at our campsite in Vernit-les-Bains. That's good because we need good weather today for our planned hike. 




Pic de Canigou is 2.800m high and we can ride with the bike the entrance which is at 1.160m altitude. A closed barrier doesn't allow anymore to drive directly to the "Refuge de Mariailles" which ist one of 2 possible starting points. So we need first to walk up 5 km on a forest road. Wooden sign indicating the hiking trail tells us that 8,2 km are lying ahead of us for the ascent.




Hiking trail is steadily going up with rocky sections, a few water crossing where we can fill up our water bottle. 



Temperatures are rising quickly but the trail is going through a beautiful forest and we are protected from too much sun.









As we arrive at an altitude of 2.400m, things are going to change massively. First we hear thunder. Only a few minutes later it's raining cats & dogs. I have rarely seen weather changing as fast from sun to rain. As true amateurs, we haven't taken the essential equipment for mountain hikes: waterproof equipment ... not good.


Seconds later we are completely soaked. It's a pity but only 1,5 km before arriving at the summit we need to go down to avoid getting a cold or worse an accident in these conditions. 

If your life is boring, get a reservation at Waldmann's adventure travel :-))



Arriving at the bike, both sheeps are wet also. So first is to get dry cloths before departure.


Again we've been reminded that not we make the rules, but the mountain decides. That's the last time we go hiking without proper gear ... 

Result of the day: out of 26 km planned hiking distance, we've made approx 22 km and 2.400 m in altitude for both ways up & down. Not too bad.

Riding out of the valley, rain becomes even stronger. We have to put on our motorcycle rain gear. Fleeing from awful weather, we ride another 60 km on our planned route along the Pyrenees direction Atlantic. Route goes through dark green nature on small beautiful roads. Finally we are out of the rain.

Arrival at a small mountain village called "Matemale" near skiing resort Formiguères. No way that we do camping after that rain. So we get a room in the local  hotel: La Belle Aude.


Once our wet cloths are hanging everywhere in the room for drying, we are going to the restaurant at 19:30.
Next surprise today is that Francois and his wife, the owners prepare exceptionally good food. Quickly all tables are occupied and Francois has started fire in his Spanish style grill in the middle of the restaurant.



As an entrance "charcuterie" is served as "amuse-bouche" in huge quantities together with muscat wine.



Nicolas has melon & ham and I go for the "escargots à la Catalane", snails cooked in a beautiful thick dark tomato sauce served in a cast iron pot. Quite hot by the way.


Main course is grilled rabbit with Aioli sauce and Tournedos with homemade french fries, both delicious.


After that exciting day, we don't leave nothing on the plates ... Francois is a former boxer and a real funny guy, very nice conversation. He takes the time for his clients ...